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Selecting a Paddle:
New stuff (10/14/09) -- about the double angle: its fine! I've always liked it, I developed the double about 25 years ago for wrist and shoulder comfort. It has a slightly more aggressive purchase than a single angle -- but it won' t make you go faster :( Oh well, and ah -- cups, cavities, spoons -- none of that nonsense makes any difference either, except mentally...and it may actually be a bit cumbersome. Hey, I was reading in PP (pacific paddler) some stuff by a paddlebuilder who is copying the Tahitian blades -- special shaft angles and neato water grippers in the blade-- just so you know, that stuff has been tried many times. Its confusing and only messes with what should really be a clean blade surface. If any of the blade holding water stuff really did work, do you think you really want to play around adjusting your stroke to accomodate it? This also would mess with what otherwise should be proper technique for paddling -- which might contradict what makes funky paddles work. The shaft angle thing -- two angles is plenty! And the configuration of the double angle is about the only one that makes sense, unless of course you just want to impress everyone with all those goosey angles. The 3 angle shaft, or ergo shaft, with the blade ahead of the shaft, and angle-back concept, actually lessens your leverage -- and yes, causes you to lose speed, if that's what you are after. How do I know? We've tested it, lotsa times, long ago...so cavities, extra angles, angles in wierd places -- well you know what they say about reinventing the wheel -- the round shape works!! The top flatwater marathon paddlers in the world -- these dudes are some of the most finely tuned athletes imagineable -- with the most refined techniques -- us a blade that is less than 8" wide -- with a slight rib on the powerface. There are no special indentations or awkward cavities. The entire emphasis is on the very beginning of the stroke -- planting the blade -- getting as much power at that point, releasing, then restarting the stroke. That's it. A powerful plant, with a simple blade surface. If anything else worked, they would be using it.
A note on my club paddles: these are really my Standard paddles; these paddles really solid, nice paddles -- hardly the run of the mill club sticks. They're durable, not very heavy, and I make them -- so they feel like they were made by someone who has handled paddles, not some machine. They are also handsome. And if you are putting a club order together, and get 20 or so, you can get half price on your paddle!!
A few basic considerations are in order as you try to find the right paddle for yourself. Which paddle to buy? And hey, do I have too many choices? Feel free to email me or call if you have questions. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, want a nice solid paddle, the Standard is great. I have a few options with it, and the rest of them; but for the most part, you'll probably want a 9" blade, T grip -- and this sorta applies to most of the paddles. The tip can be Maple or Phenolic. If you are rough on the tip, the phenolic is exceedingly durable. If not, the Maple is fine.
The other options might include more phenolic around blade, which if you really want edge durability, is nice; the powerface foil is a moderate rib on the upper portion of the paddling face of the blade -- neato, maybe some stabilizing influence, but absolutely sweet!
I'm going to be updating this page as time goes by here, so feel free to check back once in awhile.
How much of a big deal is a paddle's weight? Of course, if you build carbon paddles, it will be the most important consideration. Sure, weight matters, some. But its not the highest priority when selecting a paddle at all. A very, very light paddle, say 10 ounces or less, has less swing weight, and this is how much it weighs in the air; this doesn't matter much, except when you want to stop the paddle and start the stroke over, and if you are paddling at a cadence of 75 plus for hours. Otherwise, using a paddle that weighs 20 or so ounces isn't really an issue. Consider the 'tonnage' issue -- you know the worn out line, 5 million strokes x 8 ounces equals l8 tons or something (oh, bad math!! I know...) -- when you lift a paddle out of the water, what are you lifting? ANd what are you lifting it with? You are barely lifting it an inch or so above the water with your upper torso!! -- so who cares? That's not really a weight lifting experience! Having a light, nicely balanced paddle with feel is your primary objective. Include weight in your considerations, but don't make it the only issue.
new stuff: Lighter than 'their' hybrids'?...The new ultralite balsa blades I am making are pretty much the same weight, or even lighter, than the hybrids other builders make, and they are all beautiful wood! -- and really durable. One really nice benefit: the blades won't suddenly pop on you during a race, for no apparent reason! They are encased in expoxied two ounce cloth, have double veneered Maple edging, with an indestructible phenolic tip. They also have unbeatable feel...yes, feel, the thing that really makes a paddle your's!! BYW -- I do make nice hybrids, that are lighter and stronger than the others. I mate my laminated wood shafts with Zaveral blades -- and these are the best carbon blades available!
The little channels in the shaft... some folks have asked me about the little channels carved out of certain wooden shafts: what's the point in that? Obviously, its to make you think the paddle is lighter. And of course, that paddle is lighter than it would be had the wood remained. But what's the point in doing that, in making a shaft uncomfortable, when you can just...well, either make it lighther to begin with, or just make it smaller so that less wood is there -- and the shaft is still smooth and round. The thing that amazes me is just how many paddlers actually buy paddles like this -- why? Is it because all their freinds do it? I mean other than that, there isn't any valid reason to do so.
So many things to think about with a paddle... But, don't get too wrapped up in 'new stuff'. There aren't too many things that will make you go faster. SO it's really just a matter of what will allow you to paddle most efficiently, while you enjoy using the paddle. I mean let's face it, the bloody thing has to be comfortable! That's the hugest priority with a paddle. You shouldn't have to accodomate it!! I've made paddles for just about always it seems, and will continue to do so forever -- at least for my forever. There's not just one paddle for you. I have several that will fit you -- and mostly for you it's just deciding how light, how long, how wide, and how much....I make all my paddles, so it's not like getting my least expensive blade is going to be that much different than getting my most expensive, other than complexity of layup, looks and weight -- you know, all those things that make paddles cost more! SO heck, check back, ask questions....Brad
What's worse: too short, or too long? And how much does it really matter> Too short usually means a stroke is going to be too easy, and will be accompanied by exaggerated body movements, as you try to reach the water. There isn't enuf room between your lower hand and the top of the blade for proper leverage, and you 'arm' the blade too much. Too long means increased leverage, but more fatigue, unless you really acclimate to using the longer shaft. The increased leverage produced by the distance between the lower hand and the shaft, and the distance between the upper hand and the lower hand, means a longer, stronger stroke -- and unless you are in shape to do it efficiently, you get sloppy and inneffective. A half inch or thereabouts won't kill you. But if you need a 50"er and get a 53"er, you are in for a load of extra work!
One thing I really want to emphasize about paddle designs is this: frankly, the design of a paddle blade is not the crucial factor! I make quite a few different designs, but it's not like I really say, hey, this one here is just the cat's meow for the best paddlers. There is no such thing. The crucial factor in what makes a blade work for you has much more to do with blade dynamics and shaft comfort. . You don't want sploshing going on all around the blade as it enters the water. You want a tight fit. And big clunky plastic or wood tips don't enter smoothly. I've found that the moderate lip on the powerface is a nice way to get that blade smoothly into the water.
You also don't want a blade that is monstrous, even if you are Hercules or Wonderwoman. Your size doesn't really affect the size of your blade. You just want enough size so that the blade plants itself, and you can vault by it. It doesn't take a lot of blade to do that. I find that in most situations, 9" blade is fine. Don't let that shaft get too long either. It is unnecessarily fatiguing to stroke with a long shaft. It increases your leverage on the water. Don't let it get too short either. You don't want to be leaning out of the canoe reaching down for the water, with your hand on the top of the blade. That gives you no leverage at all, and has the effect of 'arming' the blade (so that your arm becomes the shaft).
Special paddle information: Below is some special information that might help you with your paddle selection.
What about angles? Choosing an angle is really not that complex. The double angle is something I created over 20 years ago, and it's purpose was to alleviate wrist fatigue by oriented the lower portion of the shaft back somewhat so that it more naturally aligned with the wrist. It also has a slightly different feel to it than the straight angled paddles. And, is angled at about l degree more. Paddlers have informed me that the double angle also is kinder to their shoulders.
Greater angles generally go with a higher cadence. The straighter paddles are more for a slower cadence, and would be more appropriate for shorter races, and sprints. A paddle that is angled about l0 degree is good for outrigger racing. A l0 degree angle gives you good leverage and efficiency at the same time. My own double angles are about l2 degrees overall. The plant of the blade in the water feels a bit different, but is quite comfortable. Is it more efficient? It might be, but the angles in the double angle are really a matter of comfort.
Paddles specs:, blade width, length: Blade width of course has a lot to do with resistance. The wider the blade, the more water that is held. If you go with wider blades, you should consider shorter paddles. The shorter paddles create less sweep for the blade, shortening the length of the stroke, and making for less resistance. If you go with a longer paddle, you are going to have a longer stroke -- and if you have to pack this stroke into a certain cadence, it means more fatigue, and quicker oxygen debt. The shaft length really has more to do with resistance than the blade width. Longer shafts are something only those who are in very good shape, with very strong strokes, should be interested in. If you are in the kind of shape that warrants a longer shaft, then by all means go with it. Your reach is increased, meaning you can place the power ahead of your body, which is where it belongs.
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Oak Orchard canoe -- Albion, NY
Tri Paddle Maui --92 North Market St, Wailuku, Hi 808.243.7235
Island Paddler- 716 Kapahulu Ave. Honolulu 1 808 737 4854
Quiksilver KAI KANE 5-5016 Kuhio Highway Hanalei, HI 96714 (North Shore) Tel. (808) 826-55
West Coast Paddles Rohnert Park, CA - 707 793 0198
You can now order and recieve discounts for ordering in quantities. The discounts are as follows: l0% off for 5-9 paddles; and l5% off for 10 or more. The discounts are factored in automatically.
You can order online with your credit card. Visa, MC or Disc. (sorry, no Amex) -- you can also use the Shopping cart that is available on each specific paddle page. If you have any trouble, please feel free to contact me; or if you aren't comfortable online, just give me a call.
You can also order paddles by mail. Mail your check or money order (made out to Brad Gillespie) to:
Gillespie Paddles
1283 Harris Rd.
Webster, Ny 14580
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